Way back in my college days, I used to buy the same two wines over and over again, and both were Hungarian reds. It is somewhat funny, then, that in the last 5 or ten years during which I’ve been keeping notes, I don’t seem to have bought a single bottle of Hungarian wine until I bought this dry white Hungarian during the past Christmas break.
The ‘Furmint’ in the name here refers to the grape used, and ‘Tokaji’ is the protected designation of origin (PDO) region where the wine is produced. Some of you may recognize the region name in connection with ‘Tokay’, which is an Anglicization and refers to a very sweet white wine from that area. Today’s selection, however, is, as the name indicates, a very dry wine. The Furmint grape, which accounts for about 60% or so of all wine production in the region, is also grown in Austria, Slovenia and Croatia. There has also been plantings of it in the USA in recent years and some suggest that, though still relatively unknown outside of its traditional regions, it may see an increase in popularity in the future.
In any event, this particular product is very nice indeed. It is medium-light bodied, fairly dry, and has a very bright, crisp acidity from start to finish. The nose is very muted, but carries golden apple with a backdrop of dusty straw and some faint aromatic floral notes. On the palate, one finds gold and sour green apple with a dash of mild citrus, some green vegetal highlights, and cedar with notes of resin and toasted sawdust. The slightly resinous quality may limit the appeal for some but I liked it very much and I think that this makes a very decent sipping wine and should do nicely with seafood, especially smoked salmon and smoked oysters.